Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
Hiring a licensed general contractor in San Jose, answered plainly.
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This page answers the questions that sit underneath every project rather than inside one room: how to verify a California contractor's license in about a minute, what a Class B General Building classification does and does not permit, who issues a permit for your address and who reviews the plans, what belongs in a written scope, how change orders arise and how they should be handled, what a labor warranty covers, and what dust, access and site protection actually look like while a crew is in the house.
It also answers the outdoor questions that arrive at the same stage: what a deck or patio permit actually turns on, and how pavers and poured concrete differ on Santa Clara County clay. Avis Builders and Design is licensed and bonded in California, CSLB #1142220, classification B General Building, current and active on the state register, and rated 5.0 on Google. Call (408) 208-0551 or email info@avisbuildersanddesign.com to book the free in-home consultation.
This page collects the questions that come up before a project has a shape. The service pages on this site each carry their own set, and those are about the work itself: whether a raised deck needs a permit, what a water test is and why tile goes in after it, whether a slab changes what it costs to move a kitchen sink. The city pages answer what is specific to one jurisdiction, because Los Gatos, Santa Clara, Sunnyvale and San Jose do not run the same counter.
What is gathered here sits underneath all of that. How to check a license and what the four fields on it mean. What a classification actually permits, which decides who is allowed to hold your contract at all. Who issues a permit for your address, what plan check involves, and who deals with the correction comments when they come back. What a written scope should contain, why allowances make two bids look different while describing the same job, and how change orders arise on a house nobody has opened up yet.
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What a labor warranty covers and what it leaves to the manufacturer. What living in a house through construction is like with the dust, the access and the protection all planned rather than improvised. Some of it is uncomfortable to publish and gets published anyway. A homeowner holding three bids is being asked to compare documents that are frequently not describing the same job, and the honest reason one number is lower is often that the low bid never asked what is behind the wall.
A contractor's bond is quoted so routinely that most people read it as a guarantee on their project, which it is not. A license lookup takes about a minute and almost nobody runs it, including on us, which is a shame, because it is the only claim on any contractor's website you can check without taking somebody's word for it. There are also things this page deliberately will not tell you, and it is fairer to say so at the top than to let you hunt for them.
No price appears anywhere on this site, because a remodeling number depends on the foundation, the panel, the drains and what previous work left behind, and none of that can be assessed from the driveway. No warranty term in years, no lender name, no discount amount, and no promise about how quickly a phone gets answered. Those belong in the written proposal you will actually sign, next to your scope, where you can read them and hold them.
Avis Builders and Design is a licensed California general contractor working across San Jose, Santa Clara County and the wider Bay Area. The number is CSLB #1142220, the classification is B, General Building, and the register reports the status as current and active. Anything below that is specific to a room, a structure or a town is answered on that page instead, and the consultation is free either way. The last group is the exception, and it is there because the questions people ask about decks, patios and backyards also get asked before a project has a shape: whether a permit is needed at all, whether pavers or poured concrete suits a yard on clay, and how a deck, the patio beside it and the cover over it end up as one scope instead of three separate visits. Call (408) 208-0551 or email info@avisbuildersanddesign.com.
FAQs
Licenses, bonds and checking a contractor out
How do I check a California contractor's license before I hire anyone?
The Contractors State License Board publishes a free public lookup, and the check takes about a minute for each bid you are holding. You need the license number, which any legitimate contractor prints on a proposal. Read four fields when it comes back. Status tells you whether the license is active today rather than at some point in the past. Classification decides whether that contractor is permitted to hold the contract in front of you.
The bond line confirms a surety stands behind the license. The workers' compensation line shows either a carrier or an exemption, and an exemption means the licensee has told the state they have no employees, which is a fair thing to ask about directly if a crew of four turns up on the first morning. Then check that the name on the license matches the name on the contract and the name the check is written to. For this company the number is CSLB #1142220.
Is Avis Builders and Design licensed and bonded?
Yes, and the record is worth reading rather than accepting as a slogan. Avis Builders and Design CORP holds CSLB #1142220 as a corporation license. The state register reports the status as current and active and the classification as B, General Building. A $25,000 bond is filed against the license as a condition of holding it, and workers' compensation coverage is carried through the State Compensation Insurance Fund. Every field in that paragraph comes back from the public lookup, which is the point of putting the number on every page of this site.
The issue date, the expiration date and the name of the surety sit on that same screen, so read them there instead of taking them from anybody's website, including this one.
What does a Class B General Building classification cover, and what does it not cover?
California defines a general building contractor by the kind of structure the work involves, specifically one whose construction requires the use of at least two unrelated building trades or crafts. Most remodeling clears that bar without argument. A kitchen where framing changes, a drain moves, circuits are added and tile and cabinetry finish the room is several unrelated trades running under one contract, and Class B is the classification that lets one contractor hold all of it and answer for the parts that go wrong.
What Class B does not do is stand in for a specialty classification on single-trade work. Standalone electrical, plumbing, HVAC and solar jobs belong to a contractor who holds the specialty classification for that trade. The same section of the state's contractor law draws that line: a general building contractor may not take a prime contract for a project involving trades other than framing or carpentry unless the job requires at least two unrelated trades, or the contractor holds the specialty classification, or the work is subcontracted to somebody who does.
Framing and carpentry cannot be counted toward the two. No C-class classification appears on CSLB #1142220, so nothing on this site claims one, and solar is not offered here for exactly that reason.
Who actually performs the electrical and plumbing work on my project?
A contractor classified for that trade. On multi-trade work California puts the prime contract with the general building contractor and leaves the single-trade portions to contractors who hold the specialty classification covering them, which is the reason the licensing question is worth asking about the trades on a job as well as about the general contractor. Ask for that arrangement in writing before you sign, trade by trade, so the scope states who performs each portion and under whose license. Then check those licenses the same way you checked the general. Ask for the numbers and run the same four fields.
What insurance should I ask a contractor for?
Ask for the certificate itself and read what is on it, rather than accepting a phrase off a website. Start with the state license record, because two things appear there. For CSLB #1142220 the record shows the $25,000 contractor bond and workers' compensation coverage through the State Compensation Insurance Fund. Workers' compensation is the entry that quietly matters most to a homeowner: if somebody is hurt on your property and no coverage is in place, the question of who pays has a way of ending up pointed at your own homeowner's policy.
General liability is a separate policy from a separate carrier and it does not appear on the state license record for anybody, so that one has to be requested directly. Ask every contractor you are considering, including us, and read the policy dates and the limits rather than the cover page.
Does the contractor's bond mean my project is guaranteed?
No, and being blunt about that is more useful than letting the word do work it cannot do. A contractor's bond in California is a fixed amount filed with the state as a condition of licensure. It does not scale with the size of your project, it is not insurance on your job, and it is not a guarantee that a project will finish. What it does is put a surety behind the license itself.
The things that actually protect you on a project are a written scope specific enough to argue from, a change order process where a price is agreed before the work happens, a payment schedule tied to completed milestones, and the lien releases you collect from subcontractors and suppliers at each payment.
Who handles home remodeling across the Bay Area?
Avis Builders and Design, a licensed California general contractor working from San Jose across Santa Clara County and the wider Bay Area. The part of that sentence worth checking rather than believing is the license. The number is CSLB #1142220, the classification is B General Building, the state register reports the status as current and active, a $25,000 bond is filed against the license as a condition of holding it, and workers' compensation coverage is carried through the State Compensation Insurance Fund.
The work spans the inside of the house and the yard under one contract: whole home remodeling, kitchens, bathrooms, ADUs and room additions, flooring, interior painting, exterior siding and painting, windows and doors, decks, pergolas and gazebos, landscaping, and design services including 3D design and planning. This site carries town pages for San Jose, Santa Clara, Sunnyvale, Los Gatos, Campbell, Cupertino, Saratoga, Mountain View and Los Altos. The consultation happens at your property and it is free.
FAQs
Permits, plan check and inspections in Santa Clara County
Who issues the building permit for my project, the city or the county?
The building department with jurisdiction over the address, and in this county that distinction does real work. An address inside city limits is permitted through that city. San Jose, Santa Clara, Sunnyvale, Campbell, Cupertino, Los Gatos, Saratoga, Mountain View and Los Altos each run their own counter, their own plan review and their own inspection scheduling, with their own submittal requirements and their own queue. Around here you meet the Town of Los Gatos Building Division, the City of Santa Clara Permit Center and the City of Sunnyvale Permit Center as separate offices with separate expectations.
An address in unincorporated Santa Clara County is permitted through the county instead. Two houses a mile apart can sit under different jurisdictions, which is why nothing about your permit gets assumed from what a neighboring town required last year.
Which parts of a remodel need a permit and which do not?
Structural, plumbing, electrical and mechanical work needs one. That covers moving or removing a wall, relocating a kitchen or a bathroom, adding circuits or upgrading the service, changing ductwork, altering egress, changing the size of a window or door opening, and adding conditioned space. Cosmetic work generally does not: paint, and in most cases a like-for-like flooring swap. Two things surprise people. Permitted work commonly triggers requirements beyond the room being worked on, such as bringing smoke and carbon monoxide alarms up to current standards throughout the dwelling.
And zoning rules for setbacks, lot coverage and height apply whether or not a building permit is required, so an exempt structure can still be in the wrong place. Thresholds for small detached accessory structures vary by jurisdiction and by local amendment, so what your specific project triggers gets confirmed with the correct department rather than guessed from a web page.
What happens during plan check, and who deals with the corrections?
The plan set goes to the authority with jurisdiction, and depending on the scope it can be reviewed by building, planning, fire and public works rather than by one person. Comments come back. Correction comments are normal and are not evidence that something went wrong: plan checkers are paid to find what a set does not yet show, and a first submittal that comes back clean is the exception. Answering them, revising the drawings and resubmitting is our job, not something handed back to you with a deadline attached.
Where the work touches structure, plan check will usually want calculations stamped by a licensed engineer or architect regardless of who drew the plans, and energy compliance documentation for the work involved has to be in the set. Review timelines belong to the jurisdiction and its queue, so no timeline is quoted on this page.
What if work on my house was done without a permit before I owned it?
It is common, and it usually surfaces at resale when a buyer's agent compares the county record with what is standing. There are generally two routes, and which one applies depends on the jurisdiction and on what the work is. One is to apply for a permit to legalise the existing work, which can mean opening finished surfaces so an inspector can see the framing, the wiring or the plumbing behind them. The other is to remove or rebuild the work to something that can be permitted.
Building new work on top of unpermitted work is the option that looks cheapest and inherits the whole problem, including at inspection, so we identify it at the consultation and put in writing what we think it involves for your address.
Do I need an architect or an engineer as well as a contractor?
For a lot of single-family residential work in California, plans can be prepared without a licensed architect, which is why a design-build contractor is able to produce a permit set at all. Kitchens, bathrooms, in-footprint remodels and many straightforward additions fall into that category. Where an architect earns their fee is on complex reconfigurations, projects where the architecture is the point, difficult sites, and properties under historic or design review. An engineer is a separate question from an architect: once the work touches structure, plan check will usually want stamped calculations regardless of who drew the plans. Both requirements get identified during design and stated in writing rather than appearing as a surprise line item once the submittal comes back.
Does HOA approval replace a permit, or the other way round?
Neither, because they are two unrelated approvals from two unrelated parties. A building permit is a public process run by the jurisdiction over your address against adopted code. An HOA architectural review is a private matter under the covenants you agreed to when you bought, and it can care about things code has no opinion on, such as a color, a roof material, a fence height or where a structure sits relative to a neighbor's sightline. Approval from one is not approval from the other, and an HOA saying yes does not make unpermitted work permitted. Send us the architectural packet early, because HOA review and plan check can often run alongside each other instead of one after the other.
FAQs
The consultation, the scope and the contract
How does the free in-home consultation work?
Call (408) 208-0551, send the form on the contact page, or email info@avisbuildersanddesign.com, and a visit gets arranged at the property. It is free, nothing has to be signed to get it, and there is no obligation attached to the end of it. Somebody comes out and walks the space with you, and the conversation is about what you want changed measured against what the house will allow. That is why it happens at the house rather than over a phone.
The things that decide a scope are physical: how the house meets the ground, where the electrical panel sits and how much capacity is already spoken for, which walls are carrying load and which are only dividing rooms, where the drains run, and how crew and material will get in and out without you living in a hallway for the duration. Budget gets discussed at that visit, before anything is drawn or priced, because a design nobody can afford to build wastes your time as much as ours.
What should I have ready before that visit?
Anything that already exists on paper, and a rough budget range you are willing to say out loud. Useful things to have to hand: any drawings you hold, an HOA architectural packet, a home inspection report if you bought recently, photographs of finishes or rooms you like, and a previous contractor's scope if one is sitting in a drawer. Also worth writing down beforehand: the one thing that made you start looking into this, the parts of the house you want left alone, and any date you are working towards, such as a family event or a lease ending.
A budget range is not a trap. Naming one is what lets a scope be built around it rather than presented to you as a number that has to be argued down.
What should a written scope of work contain?
More than most proposals carry. What is included, described specifically enough that two people would read it the same way. What is excluded, which is the half people skip and the half disputes come from. Which items are carried as allowances because nothing has been selected yet. Who prepares the submittal, who pulls the permit, and whether permit fees are inside the price or outside it. A payment schedule tied to completed milestones rather than to calendar dates.
The change order process, stating that a change is described and priced and signed before it is performed. The labor warranty terms and how you report a callback under it. And the legal entity holding the license, matching the license record, the contract and the payee. If a proposal is one paragraph and a total, the disagreements are already written into it and simply have not happened yet.
How much can a contractor ask for before work starts?
California caps the down payment on a home improvement contract at $1,000 or ten percent of the contract price, whichever is less. That applies to every licensed contractor in the state, this one included, and it is not a matter of negotiation or of goodwill. Payments after that should follow work actually completed, which is why a schedule keyed to milestones is worth more to you than one keyed to dates on a calendar: a date arrives whether or not the work did. A contractor asking for a third of the job before anybody arrives on site is telling you something about how the business is funded, and it is worth hearing.
How do change orders come up, and how should they be handled?
Mostly in three ways. Something gets discovered once a surface is open, which is the honest reality of working on an existing house: rot under a shower pan, a drain running the wrong direction, wiring in a wall that has not been opened since the house was built, a beam somebody cut for a duct decades ago. Or the plan checker requires something the submittal did not include. Or you change your mind, which is legitimate and is far cheaper on paper than in framing.
The right sequence is the same in all three cases. Describe the change, price it, get it signed, then build it. An agreement to sort it out at the end is how projects end in arguments. Discovery is also the reason a bid that never asked what is behind the wall is a lower number rather than a better price: those costs did not vanish, they were left to arrive later, when you have less room to move.
Can I use my own drawings, or supply my own materials?
Drawings, usually yes, and the earlier you send them the better, because they get reviewed against what a plan checker in your jurisdiction will expect rather than taken at face value. Materials are a different question and it is worth thinking about before you buy. When you supply an item, responsibility for it moves to you: if it arrives damaged, short, discontinued halfway through, or wrong for the application, the delay and the return sit on your side, and a workmanship warranty covers the installation rather than the product.
Sometimes that trade is entirely worth it, for a tile you love or a fixture you already own. Get the split written into the scope so nobody is working out who owns the problem while a crew is standing still.
I want to remodel my kitchen but don't know where to start, what should I do first?
Start in the room rather than in a showroom, because finishes are the last decision and they are reliably the first one people make. Spend a week noticing what actually fails: where the storage runs out, where two people collide, what is badly lit, which door swings into which. Write that down, because it is the brief. Then photograph the room from each corner, measure it roughly, and find the electrical panel and note whether it looks full.
The single question that moves a kitchen budget more than any finish is whether the sink, the range or a wall moves, because that is drains, circuits, framing and a permit rather than cabinetry. Collect pictures of kitchens you like and, more usefully, write down what you like about each one, since that is the part a designer can work with. Then settle on a budget range you are willing to say out loud and book the free in-home consultation, so the layout gets resolved against what the house allows before anything is priced.
Can a contractor help design my new kitchen or bathroom, not just build it?
Yes. Design services and 3D design and planning are two of the services offered here, so layout, material selection and a modeled view of the finished room can be produced before construction rather than left to your imagination. Whether design is included in a particular project is settled in the written scope rather than assumed, so raise it at the consultation and have it named in the document. What design work earns you is mostly not the picture.
It is a layout resolved against what the house will allow: which walls carry load, where the drains run, what capacity is left on the panel, where the windows and doors already sit. It is selections made before pricing, which turns allowances into real numbers instead of placeholders that get settled later at a tile counter. And it is decisions made on paper, where changing your mind costs a revision rather than a change order and a week of undoing framing that has already been paid for.
How long does a full home remodel usually take?
No duration is published on this site for any scope, and that is a deliberate position rather than an evasion: a schedule quoted before anybody has seen the house or submitted a drawing is a sales figure. What sets a real schedule is worth knowing, because most of it is not construction. Design and selections come first, and a project waits on decisions more often than it waits on trades. Plan check belongs to the jurisdiction and its queue, and correction comments are normal and add a cycle.
Material lead times run on their own clock, and cabinetry, windows, tile and appliances are ordered rather than collected. Inspections gate the stages, so framing waits on a footing sign off and finishes wait on framing. Then there is discovery, because an existing house does not disclose everything until a surface is open. The schedule that means anything is the one written into your scope, next to the milestones your payments are tied to.
How do I get started with Avis Builders and Design?
Call (408) 208-0551, send the form on the contact page, or email info@avisbuildersanddesign.com, and a visit gets arranged at the property. Nothing is signed to get that visit and nothing is owed at the end of it. After the walkthrough the sequence is design and layout, then a written scope naming what is included, what is excluded, which items are carried as allowances, who prepares the submittal and pulls the permit, the payment schedule tied to completed milestones, the change order process and the labor warranty terms.
Read that document before you sign it, and check the entity name on it against the license record and against whoever the check is written to. Then the permit submittal and plan check, then the build with its staged inspections, then a walkthrough and a written punch list that gets closed out before the work is called complete. The only step in that sequence with nothing attached to it is the first one.
FAQs
Bids, money, financing and the warranty
How much does my remodel cost, and how do I know what fits my budget?
No price appears anywhere on this site, and no cost per square foot rule is offered either, because both would be invented for your house. What can be described is how a remodeling price is actually built, which is what lets you read a proposal properly. A real number is the sum of labor and material for each trade in the scope, plus permit fees, plus engineering where structure moves, plus allowances for everything not yet selected, plus room for what turns up once surfaces are open.
Two kitchens of identical size price differently because of what is behind their walls, which is the whole reason the consultation happens at the house and is free. Finding what fits your budget runs in the other direction. Say the range out loud at that first visit, before anything is drawn, because a scope can be built to a budget while a finished design cannot be argued down to one without losing the parts you wanted in the first place.
Then ask what each allowance actually buys, ask what is excluded, and ask about phasing, because doing the structural and the wet work now and the cosmetic work later is a legitimate plan rather than an admission of defeat. The figure that binds anybody is the one in the written itemised scope.
Why will you not give me a price over the phone?
Because a number produced before anybody has seen the house is either padded to be safe or wrong in your favor, and both cost you later. What decides a remodeling price is what is physically in the building: the foundation type, how much capacity is left on the electrical service, the condition and routing of the drains, whether framing was modified by earlier work, and whether anything painted or glued predates 1978 and needs testing before it is disturbed.
None of that is visible from the driveway or from an aerial photo. The consultation is free precisely so pricing can follow a look at the house instead of preceding it. If another contractor quotes your kitchen over the phone, ask them which of those five things they assumed.
How do I compare three bids that are far apart?
Read them for what differs rather than for the total, because the total is a summary of decisions the bids made differently. Compare the scope line by line and see which one names things and which one gestures at them. Compare the allowances, then ask what quality each one represents. Compare the exclusions. Check who prepares the submittal and pulls the permit, and whether fees are in or out. Check whether structural engineering is carried.
Check whether energy compliance and any field verification the work triggers are in the price. Compare payment schedules, and warranty terms in writing. Then check each license number, its classification and the entity name against the contract. Bids that look far apart on price almost always turn out to be far apart on those answers, and the low number is frequently the one that never asked the question.
What is an allowance, and why does it matter when comparing bids?
An allowance is a placeholder figure a bid carries for something you have not chosen yet, typically tile, fixtures, appliances, lighting or cabinetry hardware. Early in a project they are unavoidable and entirely legitimate. They are also the easiest place for two proposals to look different while describing the same job, because a thin allowance makes a total look better and then gets settled later out of your pocket, at the tile counter, when you have no leverage left.
So compare them item by item, ask what grade of product each allowance actually buys, and ask in writing what happens to the price when a selection comes in over or under. An allowance you have interrogated is a useful tool. One nobody has looked at is a deferred argument.
How does the third-party financing work?
Financing is available through a third-party lender, which means the loan agreement is between you and the finance company rather than with us. Approval, rate, term and monthly payment are theirs to set and they follow your own credit profile, so no figure for any of it is published here: quoting yours would be inventing it. What financing changes on the construction side is nothing at all. The scope, the permit, the inspections and the labor warranty are identical whether a project is financed or paid directly.
Raise it at the consultation and the options get walked through with you before you sign anything, so the payment side and the scope side are settled together instead of one being discovered after the other.
How do the senior and veteran discounts work, and how do I claim one?
Both discounts exist, and both are applied to the written proposal instead of being mentioned on a doorstep and remembered differently later. Raise it at the consultation, before a proposal is prepared, because a discount that surfaces after a document has been signed is an awkward conversation for everybody in it. Who qualifies, what documentation gets asked for and what the figure comes to are all settled in that proposal, and none of it is published here, for the plain reason that publishing a number without confirming it would be worse for you than being asked to ask. If you think either one might apply to you, say so at the visit and it gets addressed in the document.
What does a labor warranty cover, and what does it not cover?
A labor warranty covers workmanship, which is the part a contractor controls: how something was installed, flashed, waterproofed, fastened, sequenced or finished. It is a separate document from a manufacturer's product warranty, which covers the product itself and is honored by the company that made it. Two warranties, two parties, and a homeowner who assumes one covers the other finds out at the least convenient moment. What a labor warranty does not cover is normal wear, damage caused by something else failing, work that somebody else altered afterwards, and maintenance a material requires and did not get.
Composite decking and exterior finishes both have maintenance expectations that affect their product coverage. The terms of ours, including how to report a callback and who to report it to, go in writing alongside your scope, so ask for them in that document and read them before you sign it.
What is a lien release and why should I collect them?
In California, subcontractors and material suppliers who worked on your property can record a claim against the property if they are not paid, and that exposure can exist even where you have paid the general contractor in full. The protection is a lien release from each of those parties, collected as a condition of each progress payment rather than chased at the end when everybody has moved on to the next job. Ask for them by name in the contract, alongside the payment schedule, so the two documents move together. Any contractor who treats that request as an insult has told you something useful about how they run their books, and it cost you nothing to find out.
FAQs
Living in the house while the work happens
Can we stay in the house during the work?
It depends entirely on what is in the scope, and the honest way to settle it is to walk the sequence at the consultation and decide before demolition rather than during it. Where the work can be phased so that a functioning kitchen or bathroom always remains, staying is often workable. Where the only bathroom is being gutted, or the plan takes the kitchen and the electrical service out in the same stretch, it usually is not, and hearing that early is worth more than being told what you were hoping for.
If you do stay, that decision changes the plan rather than sitting outside it: dust containment, a protected route in and out, where material is staged and which rooms are off limits all become part of the scope instead of being improvised in week two.
How do you keep dust out of the rest of the house?
By containing it at the boundary rather than cleaning it up afterwards, which never quite works. That means temporary barriers at the edge of the work area, plastic over openings, floor and stair protection along the route in and out, and sealing the heating and cooling returns inside the work zone so the system is not quietly distributing drywall dust into bedrooms at the other end of the house. Where the scope justifies it, the work area is kept under negative pressure so air moves out rather than in.
Cutting and sanding are what produce the fine dust that travels, so where those happen is a planning decision. Where any painted or glued material predates 1978, the federal renovation rule governs how those surfaces may be disturbed and how the area is contained and cleaned, and that is a requirement rather than a preference. Nothing keeps a construction zone spotless, and a contractor promising that is describing a house nobody is working in.
Where do the crew, the material and the debris go?
Agreed before the first day and written into the scope, because access is the thing that goes wrong quietly. That means where vehicles park, where material is staged so a delivery is not sitting on your lawn for a week, and where debris accumulates before it leaves. On most South Bay lots the driveway takes the container and the street takes the trucks. Where a container has to sit in the street instead, whether that needs permission from the city is a question for the jurisdiction over your address, and it gets asked rather than assumed.
Deliveries and pickups get scheduled around the times a narrow residential street cannot take a truck, and if there is a gate, a shared driveway, a tight turn or a neighbor with strong feelings about any of it, tell us at the consultation rather than on the morning it matters.
What gets protected, and what happens if something is damaged?
Floors and stairs along the route in and out, finishes that are staying, cabinetry and countertops, handrails, and the landscaping under any window that material has to move through. Fixtures that are staying get covered rather than relocated. Anything you would rather handle personally, art, instruments, anything irreplaceable, should be out of the work zone before the first day, and part of our job is telling you clearly which rooms count as the work zone so that decision is not left to guesswork.
Damage does happen on construction sites. The difference between a well-run job and a badly run one is that on a well-run job you hear about it from us rather than discovering it yourself, and it is repaired or replaced. Put that expectation in the written scope, because it is easier to agree to before it is needed.
How does the project actually end?
With a walkthrough and a written punch list, rather than on the day the crew stops arriving. We walk the finished work together, you point at whatever is not right, all of it gets written down, and the project is complete when that list is closed out and signed rather than when it is verbally agreed to be nearly done. Final inspection and permit closeout are part of the same finish line, and that part matters long after the dust is gone: an open permit sitting on a county record is exactly the sort of thing a buyer's agent finds when you sell.
Keep the closed permit, the warranty document and the lien releases together in one place, because that folder is what proves the work was done properly to the next person who asks.
FAQs
Decks, patios and outdoor living
Who builds decks and patios in the Bay Area?
Avis Builders and Design builds decks, patios, pergolas and gazebos and the backyards they sit in, from San Jose across Santa Clara County and the wider Bay Area, under CSLB #1142220, classification B General Building, licensed and bonded, with workers' compensation coverage through the State Compensation Insurance Fund. Deck building is one of the thirteen services offered here, and the company is a TREX PRO certified installer, which is the part that matters once composite boards go down: composite is a system with published spans, gapping and fastener details rather than a board anyone can eyeball into place.
Ask every deck builder you are considering for a license number and run it on the state lookup before anyone digs in your yard, and read the four fields the first group on this page describes. Then ask the questions that decide whether a deck lasts, which are about footings, the ledger and the framing rather than about board color. The deck building page on this site answers those in detail.
Do I need a permit to build a deck or patio in California?
Frequently yes for a deck, less often for a patio on the ground. A walking surface more than thirty inches above grade brings in guard requirements and a permit review, and an attached deck adds the ledger connection and the lateral connections California requires to what gets reviewed. A patio at grade often needs no building permit, but setback, lot coverage and drainage rules still apply to it, so an exempt structure can still be in the wrong place.
Who issues the permit depends on the address rather than the project: inside city limits it is that city's building department, and an unincorporated address goes through Santa Clara County instead. Preparing the submittal, answering the plan check comments and meeting the inspector at the staged inspections is our job rather than yours. Thresholds vary by jurisdiction and by local amendment, so what your specific address triggers gets confirmed with the correct department rather than assumed from a web page.
What is better for a backyard patio, pavers or poured concrete?
They fail differently, and that is the honest basis for choosing. Pavers are individual units set on a compacted base, so the surface flexes with the expansive clay under most yards here instead of cracking, and a section that settles can be lifted, the base corrected, and the same units put back. That also makes pavers the easier answer where a utility line might have to be trenched later, and permeable systems exist where drainage or lot coverage is a concern.
The trade is more labor to install and joints that want sand and edge restraint looked after. Poured concrete gives one continuous surface with fewer joints to sweep or catch a chair leg, and it costs less to place. It will also crack: control joints decide where rather than whether, and a repair is a patch that never matches the original pour. On clay, concrete wants a properly prepared subgrade, reinforcement and correct joint spacing to stay flat. Either surface gets pitched away from the house, roughly a quarter inch per foot, arriving at a drain or a swale rather than at a fence line.
How do I turn my backyard into an actual outdoor living space?
Decide how you want to use it and at what time of day, then let the yard answer. Watch where the shade falls at four in the afternoon in July before anybody draws anything, because a seating area in full west sun becomes a surface people cross on the way to the lawn rather than a place anyone sits. Put the seating where it is usable, decide what shades it, and size the framing and footings for that cover from the start instead of retrofitting it later.
Work with the grade rather than against it, because stepping down in platforms usually buys more usable space than one tall rectangle with a long stair run. Think about the route from the kitchen door, since an outdoor room that is awkward to reach gets used twice a summer. Then plan the parts nobody sees once rather than twice: drainage and grading, conduit for lighting and outlets, any gas run, and where planting and hardscape meet the deck. The consultation happens in the yard, which is the only place those decisions can honestly be made.
Can you build a deck and pergola as one connected backyard project?
Yes, and doing it as one project is what saves you money rather than what costs it. A pergola or a solid cover is a load on the deck: its posts have to land on framing and footings that were sized to carry them, and that is a decision made on the framing plan rather than after the boards are down. Retrofitting a cover onto a finished deck usually means pulling boards back up and often means new footings.
The same logic applies to lighting, fans, outlets and any gas run, all of which are easier to rough in while the frame is open. Grading and drainage get one plan instead of two that have to be reconciled afterwards. Deck building and pergolas and gazebos are separate services on this site and they are scoped as one project when that is what they are. If a cover, a patio or landscaping is anywhere in the plan, even a year or two out, say so at the consultation. Gas and electrical work is performed by the appropriately licensed trade under the general contract.
How do I get an idea of what my outdoor project will look like before committing?
Ask about design at the consultation. 3D design and planning and design services are two of the services offered here, so a deck, a patio or a whole backyard can be laid out and modeled before anything is built, and whether that is included in your project is settled in the written scope rather than assumed. Even without a model, insist that the drawing shows the things a pretty rendering tends to flatter: height above grade, where the stairs land and how much yard the run takes up, guard height and style, where posts come down, and how the surface meets the door threshold.
Then get physical samples into the actual yard rather than judging them indoors. Composite reads differently in Bay Area afternoon light than under showroom lighting, and a dark board that looks right on a sample rack is the one that gets hot underfoot in a west-facing garden. Seeing it beforehand is worth the effort, because outdoors the layout decisions are the ones you cannot undo cheaply.
What Bay Area cities do you build decks, patios and backyards in?
San Jose, Santa Clara, Sunnyvale, Los Gatos, Campbell, Cupertino, Saratoga, Mountain View and Los Altos each have their own page on this site, and the outdoor work runs across Santa Clara County and the wider Bay Area from the same San Jose base. Which town you are in changes an outdoor project more than most homeowners expect. Each of those jurisdictions runs its own permit counter with its own submittal requirements and its own queue, and an unincorporated address goes through the county instead of a city.
Hillside properties above Los Gatos and Saratoga can sit inside a designated fire hazard severity zone, which narrows the decking material list near the structure and changes how the underside is detailed, so the zone gets confirmed with the building department before materials are ordered. Flatter valley lots bring the expansive clay that drives footing design. Avis Builders and Design is a service area business, so there is no showroom to visit and the consultation happens at your property.
